Finding The Real New England Lobster Roll

Futile But Tasty Quest (AP) - MASHPEE, Mass. -- Leaning back in his bar stool, the retired postmaster shook his head and jabbed a fork toward the pound of lobster and mayonnaise stuck between bread. Deprived of lobster rolls in Arizona, James Maguire III had returned to his native Massachusetts and consumed seven in almost as many days. He found the biggest and best at The Raw Bar in Mashpee.

"There's more lobster in this one than all the rest combined," he said, giddy with delight. New Englanders speak of lobster rolls with a reverence usually reserved for religion. Devoted sects squabble over the delicacy's origins, they quarrel over recipe orthodoxy and they flock to beloved seafood shacks like pilgrims to a shrine. A winding summertime journey from Connecticut to Maine spanned 250 miles, seven lobster rolls and several thousand calories. The search didn't reveal the one, undisputed lobster roll, but it uncovered some good ones.

Here's the truth: A proper New England lobster roll includes meat and bread. Everything else is negotiable. Disputes over the lobster roll outnumber the ingredients in one. Are they properly served drenched in butter or smeared with mayonnaise? Hellman's or horseradish? Lettuce or celery? And why lobster, anyway? "There is that weird irony that lobster is such an expensive ingredient and it's being served in such a pedestrian way," said Rebecca Charles, a Manhattan chef who first encountered lobster rolls while vacationing in Maine as a child.

Charles considers herself a fundamentalist. To her, a true lobster roll is cased in a toasted, Pepperidge Farm hotdog bun. It contains cold lobster chunks coated with Hellman's mayonnaise. She mixes in minced celery, salt and pepper, then adds squeezed lemon juice. Warm bread contrasts with cold meat. - complete article